|
Shooting
small
by
Peter Tatton
Reproduced
from in focus 60 (June,
1997)
Definition
A
few years ago this was easy. With mainly (non-SLR) amphibious
cameras on the market anything taken with either a close-up
lens or extension tube was a macro shot. Now it is more difficult
as many divers use SLR cameras in underwater housings. A reproduction
ratio of 1:6 or greater up to 2:1 is now considered to be
a close-up / macro shot.
So
why shoot small?
The
answer is simple - because it is technically easy. Flash
is used for the vast majority of macro shots. So the Shutter speed can be pre?set at 1/90th for the Nikonos V, 1/60th for
SLR housed cameras or up to 1/250th for the Nikon 801 or more
advanced Nikon cameras.
As
most camera and flash systems use TrL metering the selection
of is less critical than if shooting manually. When
shooting macro subjects you should always try to use the smallest
possible to gain the largest depth of field. If in
doubt bracket, using the setting and the camera's
LED ready-light will tell you when your shot was correctly
exposed. After a while the settings for a set distance
will become second nature to you.
With
the Nikonos V or Motormarine II the close-up equipment pre-sets
the focal distance using a framing device so, once the manufacturer's
advice has been followed, focusing is taken care of. With
SLR cameras you can see the exact point of focus so there
is no problem.
When
shooting small you are close to your subject, which means
the amount of suspended matter in the water between the camera's
lens and subject is reduced. This gives you an apparent increase
in visibility, which is great if you are photographing is
normal UK waters! When the water is clearer this is not a
disadvantage; you will just be able to see your subject more
clearly.
Having
purchased your expensive underwater photographic gear you
will want to get good consistent results and shooting small
is the means by which to obtain this goal. Good macro photography
can be mastered easily in one season? so what's stopping you?
So
what are the problems?
Specific
to the non-SLR cameras (Nikonos V and Motormarine II) are
their focal framing devices which can inadvertently cast shadows
across the photograph or appear in them. When attaching frames
to the camera care should be taken so that they are correctly
fixed and the flash is positioned in such a way as not to
illuminate them.
With
SLR cameras framing devices are not a problem but flash positioning
can be. If you set your flash to illuminate a subject Ini
away then zoom into a subject 30cm away your flash may not
be pointing at it or it may cast an unacceptable shadow. This
is one of the down sides to using a SLR for close-up work.
You must consider the lighting of your subject at all times.
A modelling light, especially one incorporated into the flashgun,
helps immensely in these situations.
With
so many underwater variables under control it is important
to select strong bold subjects. Do not settle for the first
species you come across but look around for one that fits
your frame and can be well composed. Remember that everyone
else has the same advantages as you so if you are entering
competitions your shot has to have that something extra.
Over
the years much has been written about close-up photography,
so I have not gone overboard here. "In Focus" has
covered the subject in its October 85, August 86, April 89
and September 96 issues. Most books written on U/W photographing
techniques have sections covering close-up photography. |
