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sharks - Bull Shark Safari
by
Neil Stewart
Reproduced
from in focus 72 (October
2001)
SHARKS!
The very mention of the word is synonymous with danger and
excitement and sends a frisson of anxiety or fear coursing
through the nervous system. The waters surrounding the Bahamian
Islands are home to the Eagle Ray, the Caribbean Reef Shark
and the Caribbean Black-tip Shark, also native to these waters
is the Lemon Shark and during the winter months, the infamous
Bull Shark. The Bull Shark con grow to 3.5 metres and weighing
in at approximately 175 kilograms has an equally impressive
girth and a massive head. It con tolerate salty seawater or
fresh water and it has been recorded well over 2,000 kilometres
up the Mississippi and 4,000 kilometres up the Amazon River,
where it has been known to attack people. This probably makes
the Bull Shark more dangerous than the Great White or the
Tiger Shark according to Collins Guide to Sharks and Rays.
On
day one, the team assembled atop a small headland for our
first viewing of the Bull Sharks. Our platform provided a
panoramic view of six of these magnificent creatures swimming
in clear, shallow water, dorsal fins cutting the surface.
The atmosphere of expectancy was occasionally punctuated by
the whack and splash of a caudal fin hitting the water. Given
the Bull Sharks' fearsome reputation of eating almost anything
and perhaps being the most lethal of all sharks it gave one
pause for thought, particularly as we were about to snorkel
with them.
Having
plucked up enough courage, we donned our snorkelling gear
and somewhat tentatively entered the water to confront these
leviathans of the shark world at close quarters. After an
initial standoff, the Bull Sharks come in very close to inspect
us - they would swim right up to you, veering away just before
a head-on collision seemed inevitable. Given their size and
awesome reputation, this was an incredible experience.
As
you duck-dive to maximise a photo opportunity - perhaps a
head-on encounter - you would be on the seabed, breathing
out gently and framing the oncoming Bull Shark in your viewfinder.
See fig. 1 Suddenly you would become aware of movement beside
you. Glancing to your side, you would find an eight-foot Bull
Shark taking a close look at you and sometimes it would brush
you with its pectoral fin. It's at moments like this, that
you ask yourself 'What am I doing here?
With
a view to providing photo opportunities, we were marshalled
into a line in very shallow water in order that the shore
party could throw pieces of fish into the water in front of
us. The sharks would be galvanised into immediate action,
swooping in towards us to seize lumps of fish and then make
off with their prize clenched in their teeth. See fig. 2.
It was during this session that the only incident took place.
One piece of bait landed a bit too close for comf ort, in
front of one of the team and a Bull Shark grabbed it. At the
same time, one of the two Lemon Sharks, which had been competing
for the same piece of fish, kept coming forward in feeding
mode and snatched a camera. As the camera was attached to
a diver by a safety lanyard, an awkward tug of war developed
and there were a few anxious moments, before the shark released
the camera and allowed a rather shaken diver to retreat to
dry land.
Shark
Rodeo
On
arrival at the dive site, the action commences at once - the
skipper pushes his boat into continuous tight circles, while
gunning the motor towardsitslimit. The noise level becomes
almost deafening building up the level of excitement and anticipation.
This is the dinner bell summoning the sharks to the feast
and within minutes you can see them assembling beneath you,
silhouetted against the white sand of the seabed.
As
you step off the stern platform and start your descent to
the seabed some ten metres below; you find yourself surrounded
by Caribbean Reef and Black-tip sharks. You cannot help but
admire the sheer beauty, power and elegance of the sharks
in their own element and it makes you realise how clumsy you
are by comparison. At the same time, it dawns on you, how
privileged you are to be swimming within touching distance
of these magnificent creatures. Once you relax and settle
down to admire the sharks, you note the feline-like eyes and
the sensitive structure of the nose. As they swim past, you
can stroke them and feel the rough texture of their skin and
if you are close enough when one opens its mouth, you can
observe the legendary triangular teeth and bone crushing jaws
- a heart stopping sight.
This
was our introduction to the Shark Podeol which is guaranteed
to produce a supercharged, adrenaline pumping diving experience.
The 'Chumsicle', or frozen bait-ball concept provides
divers with superb views of the sharks, without the sharks
associating the food with divers. You are actively encouraged
to swim freely with the sharks, the theory being that they
will treat you as just another predator at the dinner table.
During
our stay on the island, we participated in three Shark Rodeos,
each one different but all equally exciting. Once the chumsicle
is lowered into the water and secured, it is immediately set
upon by a large shoal of Yellow Snappers and a variety of
other fish, while the sharks patiently cruise round in a leisurely
circle. See fig.3. After a short wait, the big boys in grey
suits join the party, powering in to snatch food from the
chumsicle. Them, as the bait-ball begins to disintegrate,
the tempo increases and the competition to secure a meal becomes
quite lively. On our final dive, the feed ended in a kind
of frenzy, which had the dive guides moving us wel I away
from the action.
Travel
Note (Photographers - take heedl)
Following
a frustrating three-hour wait for transport at Miami Airport,
we finally dropped our kit at the overnight hotel and headed
into Fort Lauderdale looking for sustenance. Within walking
distance we came across 'The Outback' - an Australian
restaurant! Hey, this is Florida, what else would you expect!!
The steaks were American and huge and the beer was ice cold
- just perfect.
Saturday
morning saw us safely transferred to the local airport for
the flight to Walker's Coy. Our bags were carefully weighed
at check-in and the inevitable photographers' excess baggage
penalty paid. Then, much to our consternation, the airline
staff requested that we each stood on the scales for a personal
weight check. You can imagine the scene - much surreptitious
shedding of jackets, heavily laden with batteries and other
photographic paraphernalia.
And
so to Walker's Cay, the most northerly island in the Bahamian
chain and a little gem. Tucked into its 100 acres you will
find an excellent hotel, plus the Conch Pearl restaurant,
which serves delicious, mouth watering Bahamian and international
dishes. Attached to the hotel is a cocktail bar where you
can order lethal rum punches, or any other drink that takes
your fancy. A short stroll past the freshwater pool brings
you to the marina, where you will find the dive operation,
charter fishing office; grocery store and the Lobster Pot,
the latter offering a splendid lunchtime menu of salads and
freshly caught seafood. Adjacent to the Lobster Pot is the
local pub, where the dirty dancing performed by the locals
on party nights, makes for a great spectator sport.
Thanks
to Jeremy Stafford-Deitsch, our mentor and team-leader, who
made it all possible and to Gary Adkison and his dive staff
for some memorable and unbeatable diving experiences.
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