More sharks - Bull Shark Safari

by Neil Stewart

Reproduced from in focus 72 (October 2001)

SHARKS! The very mention of the word is synonymous with danger and excitement and sends a frisson of anxiety or fear coursing through the nervous system. The waters surrounding the Bahamian Islands are home to the Eagle Ray, the Caribbean Reef Shark and the Caribbean Black-tip Shark, also native to these waters is the Lemon Shark and during the winter months, the infamous Bull Shark. The Bull Shark con grow to 3.5 metres and weighing in at approximately 175 kilograms has an equally impressive girth and a massive head. It con tolerate salty seawater or fresh water and it has been recorded well over 2,000 kilometres up the Mississippi and 4,000 kilometres up the Amazon River, where it has been known to attack people. This probably makes the Bull Shark more dangerous than the Great White or the Tiger Shark according to Collins Guide to Sharks and Rays.

On day one, the team assembled atop a small headland for our first viewing of the Bull Sharks. Our platform provided a panoramic view of six of these magnificent creatures swimming in clear, shallow water, dorsal fins cutting the surface. The atmosphere of expectancy was occasionally punctuated by the whack and splash of a caudal fin hitting the water. Given the Bull Sharks' fearsome reputation of eating almost anything and perhaps being the most lethal of all sharks it gave one pause for thought, particularly as we were about to snorkel with them.

Having plucked up enough courage, we donned our snorkelling gear and somewhat tentatively entered the water to confront these leviathans of the shark world at close quarters. After an initial standoff, the Bull Sharks come in very close to inspect us - they would swim right up to you, veering away just before a head-on collision seemed inevitable. Given their size and awesome reputation, this was an incredible experience.

As you duck-dive to maximise a photo opportunity - perhaps a head-on encounter - you would be on the seabed, breathing out gently and framing the oncoming Bull Shark in your viewfinder. See fig. 1 Suddenly you would become aware of movement beside you. Glancing to your side, you would find an eight-foot Bull Shark taking a close look at you and sometimes it would brush you with its pectoral fin. It's at moments like this, that you ask yourself "What am I doing here?

With a view to providing photo opportunities, we were marshalled into a line in very shallow water in order that the shore party could throw pieces of fish into the water in front of us. The sharks would be galvanised into immediate action, swooping in towards us to seize lumps of fish and then make off with their prize clenched in their teeth. See fig. 2. It was during this session that the only incident took place. One piece of bait landed a bit too close for comf ort, in front of one of the team and a Bull Shark grabbed it. At the same time, one of the two Lemon Sharks, which had been competing for the same piece of fish, kept coming forward in feeding mode and snatched a camera. As the camera was attached to a diver by a safety lanyard, an awkward tug of war developed and there were a few anxious moments, before the shark released the camera and allowed a rather shaken diver to retreat to dry land.

Shark Rodeo

On arrival at the dive site, the action commences at once - the skipper pushes his boat into continuous tight circles, while gunning the motor towardsitslimit. The noise level becomes almost deafening building up the level of excitement and anticipation. This is the dinner bell summoning the sharks to the feast and within minutes you can see them assembling beneath you, silhouetted against the white sand of the seabed.

As you step off the stern platform and start your descent to the seabed some ten metres below; you find yourself surrounded by Caribbean Reef and Black-tip sharks. You cannot help but admire the sheer beauty, power and elegance of the sharks in their own element and it makes you realise how clumsy you are by comparison. At the same time, it dawns on you, how privileged you are to be swimming within touching distance of these magnificent creatures. Once you relax and settle down to admire the sharks, you note the feline-like eyes and the sensitive structure of the nose. As they swim past, you can stroke them and feel the rough texture of their skin and if you are close enough when one opens its mouth, you can observe the legendary triangular teeth and bone crushing jaws - a heart stopping sight.

This was our introduction to the Shark Podeol which is guaranteed to produce a supercharged, adrenaline pumping diving experience. The "Chumsicle", or frozen bait-ball concept provides divers with superb views of the sharks, without the sharks associating the food with divers. You are actively encouraged to swim freely with the sharks, the theory being that they will treat you as just another predator at the dinner table.

During our stay on the island, we participated in three Shark Rodeos, each one different but all equally exciting. Once the chumsicle is lowered into the water and secured, it is immediately set upon by a large shoal of Yellow Snappers and a variety of other fish, while the sharks patiently cruise round in a leisurely circle. See fig.3. After a short wait, the big boys in grey suits join the party, powering in to snatch food from the chumsicle. Them, as the bait-ball begins to disintegrate, the tempo increases and the competition to secure a meal becomes quite lively. On our final dive, the feed ended in a kind of frenzy, which had the dive guides moving us wel I away from the action.

Travel Note (Photographers - take heedl)

Following a frustrating three-hour wait for transport at Miami Airport, we finally dropped our kit at the overnight hotel and headed into Fort Lauderdale looking for sustenance. Within walking distance we came across "The Outback" - an Australian restaurant! Hey, this is Florida, what else would you expect!! The steaks were American and huge and the beer was ice cold - just perfect.

Saturday morning saw us safely transferred to the local airport for the flight to Walker's Coy. Our bags were carefully weighed at check-in and the inevitable photographers' excess baggage penalty paid. Then, much to our consternation, the airline staff requested that we each stood on the scales for a personal weight check. You can imagine the scene - much surreptitious shedding of jackets, heavily laden with batteries and other photographic paraphernalia.

And so to Walker's Cay, the most northerly island in the Bahamian chain and a little gem. Tucked into its 100 acres you will find an excellent hotel, plus the Conch Pearl restaurant, which serves delicious, mouth watering Bahamian and international dishes. Attached to the hotel is a cocktail bar where you can order lethal rum punches, or any other drink that takes your fancy. A short stroll past the freshwater pool brings you to the marina, where you will find the dive operation, charter fishing office; grocery store and the Lobster Pot, the latter offering a splendid lunchtime menu of salads and freshly caught seafood. Adjacent to the Lobster Pot is the local pub, where the dirty dancing performed by the locals on party nights, makes for a great spectator sport.

Thanks to Jeremy Stafford-Deitsch, our mentor and team-leader, who made it all possible and to Gary Adkison and his dive staff for some memorable and unbeatable diving experiences.