Mergui revisited

by Mark Webster

Reproduced from in focus 65 (June 1999)

In October 1997 the islands and reefs of the Mergui Archipelago were opened to western tourism for the first time in 50 years. Some far sighted liveaboard operators in Thailand had recognised the potential of the area and hod spent the previous three years slowly negotiating the licensing with the Myanmar government to bring in the first divers. These first forays, which included my own in January 1998, revealed a wealth of marine life and dive sites that had that virgin and untouched aura about them. I resolved to return just as soon as possible and my opportunity arose in February aboard the yacht "Stressbreaker" (formally operated in the Red Sea).

In one short year things have already noticeably changed in the area. On my last visit only one boot was seriously offering exploration of the diving in the area, with perhaps two or three others coming into the southern end of the archipelago as an extension to a trip to the Similan and Surin islands in Thai waters to the south. Now there are at least eight operating out of Kowthoung on Mergui, only charters, and at least the same again on extensions from Thailand.- Burma is now definitely on the diving map.

This, sadly, is not the only thing to have changed in this area. Due mostly to demand frorn overseas markets, Thailand in particular, fishing activities have significantly increased in the area. Thailand's own waters are already suffering from over fishing and this has encouraged Thai fishermen to move into Burmese waters using the most opportunistic methods - dynamite fishing. These incursions have also led to gun battles at sea between the Thai and Burmese fishing fleet, but the Burmese are not entirely innocent in this as many have also adopted this destructive method of harvesting their catch. This situation means at best live-aboards are excluded from the southern end of the archipelago where these clashes occur, and worst that some of the best known dive sites have been, we hope temporarily, devastated of their fish life. We regularly encountered groups of fishing boots at previously deserted sites and often heard the sound of detonations whilst in the water. These were fortunately occurring some distance away and we did not encounter any concentrations of dead fish, but this fishing method is becoming a common occurrence. I do not wish to paint too gloomy a picture, as there are still countless dive sites, which are healthy and still more to be discovered. However, it is depressing to see these changes in such a short time, but hopefully the Myanmar government will recognise this valuable source of
tourist revenue and put a stop to these activities. In the meantime the message is clear: go soon if you wish to enjoy solitude at the dive sites and just in case fishing controls do not emerge.

One improvement that the increase in boats has brought is the pace at which immigration formalities are dealt with by both the Thai and Burmese authorities. Whether your boat originates from Kawthoung or from Thai waters you will have to clear Burmese immigration in Kawthoung and be stamped both in and out of the country. Thankfully, the process of issuing a visa has been reduced from the best part of a day to a couple of hours and we were soon on our way to our first night's anchorage at Barwell island where we moored in a narrow passage with a gaggle of local fishing boats. Although the latest Admiralty charts for the area now show the entire island names in Burmese, most skippers are still sticking with the original and more familiar British names.
Here is a selection of our most memorable dives:

Stewart Island - At the beginning of our week we enjoyed the tail end of spring tides and experienced some very strong currents. On this dive we were literally washed through a gully before finding some shelter from the tide on the lee side. Visibility was only 5-10m here with very heavy plankton suspension. Shoals of reef fish, cuttle fish, various urchins, cucumbers, some gorgonions and sea whips with gobies. We were starkly reminded of the potential dangers here as one of our party was carried off by the current for more than 1/2 mile in a few minutes when the boat missed him on the surface. He would not have been found without his safety sausage.

Faraway Bank - This is a submerged plateau rising from 30m on the southern side and 45m on the northern side to 6m. There were a number of fishing boats in the area on our arrival, apparently laying long lines and nets, although some left very quickly when we appeared. We heard at least two dynamite blasts underwater (some distance off) during our dive ? fishing and diving is supposedly off-limits in this area at present due to armed clashes between Thai and Burmese fishing boats, so none of us should have been here really and the incident could not be reported. As a result, there were virtually no fish seen through the dive (the previous week had been teeming) in poor visibility. There are some impressive soft corals and sea fans on the walls of the bank (total area approx 100 square m). Thousands of spiny urchins again, scorpion fish, sea snakes, anemones, patrolling batfish and one or two barracuda. The site is remote and in open water and very exposed to current, so a slack water dive only.

Western Rocky Island - This is one of the best dives that Burma has on offer. We dived on the south side, protected from the tide towards the cavern entrance. Silvertips and white tips were patrolling and the expected two nurse sharks were resting in the tunnel to the north side of the island. There are several impressive white gorgonions in the cave entrance and many colourful soft corals in the archway and on the western faces of the island where a reasonable current was still running. We saw shoals of fusiliers, yellow striped snappers, squid, and even cuttle fish being cleaned whilst laying eggs. The walls and overhangs in the shallows on the south side are very colourful and excellent for macro subjects - sponges, clams, tubastrea corals in overhangs and numerous soft corals and see fans. In amongst these are plenty of nudibranchs, gobies, morays, octopus etc.

Great Swinton Island - The sites here are once again centred on large surface breaking rocks off-shore, the best area being around Jouseya cove. Jouseya is Burmese for "spooky" and the entrance is down a long deep dark (18m) gully. The expectation of white tip, black tip and nurse sharks certainly builds the apprehension. They are certainly all there and all want to exit pretty quickly when disturbed which provides a few exciting moments as both sharks and divers wonder who is more surprised. The surrounding reef is particularly rich with colourful soft and hard corals, gardens of purple and green carpet anemones (many host to the pretty porcelain crabs), large shoals of jacks and barracuda and on my visit, several pairs of mating giant cuttlefish and octopus, and a first for me, a pair of ghost pipe fish.

Mini Richleau - Great Swinton Island - This submerged pinnacle comprises two pinnacles close together rising from 30?35m to within 3m of the surface. A fantastic array of see fans and soft corals awaited us with bull rays and barracuda patrolling the gap between the two rocks. There seemed to be a different species of nudibranch every metre or so with pixie hawk fish and blennies fighting for your attention. The visibility was not excellent during our dive but this did not seem so important with the plethora of macro life to keep you occupied.

Block Rock - This isolated surface-breaking pinnacle is one of the most spectacular dives the area offers. Shear walls dropping from surface to 5060m on one side whilst the other offers ledges every 10?15m before arriving at a 40m maximum depth. Lots of big life here with fast visits from large silver tip and black tip sharks, bull rays patrolling the ledges, jacks and barracuda whilst the colourful sedentary life fights for space on the rock walls. Although currents can be strong here there is always a lee side which gives plenty of scope for a deep excursion followed by a gentle ascent and plenty to watch in the shallows whilst you make a safety stop and finish your air. After an early morning dive here we relaxed over breakfast and watched the topside predators -a pair of large fish eagles nesting on top of the rock made spectacular repeated catches in front of the boat to feed their hungry chicks.

The Pinnacle - South Twin Island - An absolutely vast boulder from 5-6m falling to 22/24rn on seaward side where many other large boulders form canyons and swim-throughs on a sandy bottom. There are large soft corals (pole/white with black tips), gorgonians, sea whips with crinoids and trees of black coral in the gully all covered in crinoids. Many soft corals, sponges, hydroid bushes and gorgonians are on the larger boulder faces. On the top of the largest boulder/pinnacle there is a small hard coral garden in perfect condition (at present) with shoals of anthias (seem to be unusual here). Currents are very strong here and it was almost impossible to hang on top for a decompression stop!

The Stressbreaker is now under the new ownership of Paul Cottrell, a Brit' who has escaped the pressures of industry. The boat has been extensively refitted and is every bit as good as she was in her Red Sea heyday. Group sizes are limited to eight and the saloon is spacious enough for camera preparation between dives. The food was prepared by a Burmese cook and was a pleasant mixture of western and Burmese influences. Stressbreaker has a UK agent shown below and operates during the north east monsoon season between November and May.

Contacts:

Furlongs Travel

Tel: (UK) 01580 240240 Fax 01580 240244

E-mail: dive@furlongs.co.uk

How to get there:

Thai International fly direct to Bangkok with connections to Phuket or Ranong (0171499113)

Most of the major airlines have routes to Bangkok with connections en route. There are bargains to be found if you don't mind lengthy connections. Try Trailf inders (0171938 3366)

Don't miss the opportunity to sample a little of Thailand - accommodation can be very cheap and the Baht (Thai currency) exchange rate is excellent at present.

Conditions:

The north east monsoon between October and May presents the best diving conditions with mostly calm seas and water temperatures of 28°C. Plankton blooms are likely from March to May (manta and whale shark season).

Diving Safety:

There are recompression chambers in Phuket (Patong Beach) and Bangkok. These are funded by the local dive centres and will treat a casualty even if you are not insured (insured divers are asked to reimburse costs). However, there are no air evacuation facilities and Patong is a long way off.

All boats carry oxygen and normally restrict diving depths to a maximum of 40m.
Bring a safety sausage and strobe flasher ? currents are strong at some locations and the Andaman sea is a big place!

Pros: An area rich in marine life offering a true sense of adventure and a chance to sample totally new dive sites

Cons . Not suitable for inexperienced divers.