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The
Maldives Islands lie in the Indian Ocean. They include 26
atolls of about 1200 islands with vegetation which stretch
over 750 kilometres from just south of the Equator at Gan
to Haa Dhaal Atoll in the north.
At
the end of March this year my wife Linda and I planned to
spend two weeks cruising and diving some of the atolls of
the Maldives Islands on MV Keema. Originally our flight out
had been booked with Pakistan International Airways via Karachi,
but in view of the Gulf conflict it was considered prudent
to switch to Singapore Airlines and fly direct from Paris
to Male. Two weeks before our departure, however, Linda received
an invitation to participate in the International Blue Maldives
Underwater Photographic Competition on Bathala in the Ari
Atoll. The competition was due to take place the week before
our proposed cruise on MV Keema and after a couple of calls
to Maldives Scuba Tours, Linda had her flight rebooked to
depart a week earlier than originally planned and was on her
way.
When
we next met at Male airport the competitors in the International
Blue Maldives in Bathala had finished taking their photographs
but the judging had not taken place.
Our
hosts for the cruise, Samantha Harwood and Rob Bryning, greeted
us at Male airport and after completing the necessary paper
work and handing over our return flight tickets for reconfirmation
we stepped aboard Keema's 30 foot diving support vessel, Godha,
to ferry us out to MV Keema, our home for the next two weeks.
Although we had received full details of the vessel's numerous
characteristics and attributes we were nevertheless very pleasantly
surprised by her large size and more than adequate deck space.
She is in fact 80 foot from stem to stern and can accommodate
12 guests in 6 double cabins, two with en suite showers and
heads and the other four each sharing two similar adjoining
facilities. Our party comprised eight guests, two of whom
had cabins to themselves.
We
all settled in quickly and changed out of our travelling clothes
into swim wear, which proved to be just about all we needed
for the rest of the holiday. During lunch we set off for our
first dive in the Maldives on Big Banana Reef in the Furena
Channel. And what a dive! Their was a fair current running,
which probably explains why there were so many fish in one
place at one time. Whilst the majority of the group drift
dived, Linda and I tucked ourselves into the lee of the headland
behind some huge boulders to photograph some of these fish,
Large Napolean or Humphead Wrasse, Snappers, Surgeons, Tuna,
Trevally, Fusillers and Blue-fin Jacks played in the current.
Squirrel fish, Soldier fish, Oriental and Spotted Sweetlips
lurked in groups in small caves and beneath overhangs. Golden
Line Emperors schooled and Butterfly fish danced in the backwaters
as the Moray Eels watched sardonically from their lairs. Groupers,
bright red and spotted with blue or marbled black and white,
lay cautiously in wait for a passing meal. The almost bare
exposed rock of the reef face gave way to a veritable rainbow
of soft and hard corals in the quieter more sheltered overhangs.
So tame were some of Big Banana Reefs inhabitants that they
posed within the framer of my close-up lens!
After
fifty minutes at a maximum of 16 M our air supply had dwindled
to the point when surfacing became more important than the
next photograph and we reluctantly followed our bubbles to
the sunlight. Godha was waiting anxiously. The dhoni echoed
to cries of "Did you see ..? Did you see ... ?"
as we climbed aboard - it was evident that everyone had enjoyed
their first Maldives experience.
Almost
before we had stowed our diving gear on the dhoni, we were
back alongside Keema where fresh tea and coffee with biscuits
awaited us and plans were under way for our second dive of
the day in the Vaadhu Channel between North and South Male
Atolls. By contrast there was little to no current on the
steep reef wall of this site which was liberally colonised
by dark green branching dendrophyllid corals up to half a
metre in height. Here more Oriental and Spotted Sweetlips
hung in groups and Moray Eels peered out at the beautiful
Emperor Angels as they moved nervously from coral to coral.
A large black Puffer fish cruised busily past as I admired
a Phyllidia sea slug. A dark Lion Fish posed threateningly
in the close-up framer. Here there were Bubble Coral, Gorgonians,
stony corals and the odd starfish and cushion star. Christmas
tree worms, adorning the stony corals, vanished from sight
at the very suggestion of a camera lens. Although not as exciting
as Big Banana Reef our second dive in the Maldives was very
pleasant and much enjoyed.
Back
on board Keema, anchored safely within the lagoon, an excellent
meal was served. Log books were completed and films changed
prior to going ashore for a drink - Keema does not have a
licence to sell alcoholic beverages and drinks can only be
purchased at tourist island resorts, when these are within
easy reach of the night anchorage. In the event this didn't
cause undue hardship. After two or three days three of the
staunchest drinkers were openly admitting they did not miss
a drink, although the frequency with which they did so suggests
the reverse was probably the case. They certainly made up
for lost time when we did go ashore, however, and ensured
some very entertaining evenings - wet or dry.
For
the next 11 days we dived before breakfast, before or after
lunch and just before or at dusk. All of the dusk and night
diving took place within a lagoon due to the difficulty of
navigating and picking up surfacing divers with the dhoni
in the dark in possible currents. It was also Ramadan during
our visit which meant the crew's first meal of the day was
served at 6.20 p.m., just as the sun set, and all were understandably
keen to break their fast. However, we did enjoy several night
dives seeing many night active creatures such as slate pencil
urchins, cushion stars, many different species of starfish
(including Crown-of-Thorns), featherstars, red coral crabs
and octopus.
We
sailed south from S. Male Atoll to Felidu Atoll, diving on
the reefs and tillas of Felidu, Thinadu, Hulhidoo, Foteo and
Rakeedu, across to Ari Atoll to dive Kudibolla, Daghetbodu,
Timfushi. Mushimagilli, Maatafushi and Velido reefs and tillas
and north to Rasdu Atoll to Madivaru before returning to Male
and Big Banana Reef and the wreck of the Maldives Victory.
We saw an impressive selection of Maldives' marine life on
all dives, notable among these were Spotted Eagle rays (at
Felidu, Thinadu Tilla, Rakidu and Velidu Tilla), White tip
Reef Sharks (at Embudu Finolhu Tilla, Thinadu Tilla, Mushimagilli,
Maayafushi, Velidu Tilla and Maduvaru), Grey Shark (at Madivaru)
and Green Turtle (at Thinadu Tilla and Kudibolla Tilla)
The
most memorable dive, however, has to be that at Velidu Tilla
in the Ari Atoll. The Tilla rises to within 18 M of the surface
and rumour has it that Manta Ray are found there throughout
the year. The dhoni put our entire party in the water directly
over a large Manta which looked big, even from the surface.
As we descended, I was convinced that the giant would take
off before we reached bottom. It was indeed big, possibly
in excess of 5 metres, although estimates varied up to 6 metres.
Much to my delight the Manta, which was maintaining station
over a large stony coral with just its cavernous mouth held
up and open in the current sweeping across the tilla, stayed
put even when surrounded by 10 divers.
I
started to take photographs using a full-frame fish eye lens
and had to move away to get the whole beautiful animal in
the viewfinder. In my excitement I had to be restrained by
Rob, who gave me a gently tug on the fin to remind me that
I wasn't the only one enjoying this amazing encounter. Very
slowly the huge fish rose and edged forwards like a vast space
cruiser in the current, passing directly over and only inches
from my head. A huge white belly, punctuated with perfectly
symmetrical, rhythmically pulsating gill covers, filled my
vision. Wow! The Manta gathered momentum and moved off leaving
us feeble divers battling the current in pursuit to no avail.
This was not, however, to be the end of our enjoyment. Linda
and I gave in to the current and slowly drifted across the
tilla meeting shoal after shoal of snapper, the occasional
White tip Reef Shark and Eagle Ray and, yes, more Manta Rays,
this time flying effortlessly in pairs, passing so close that
I did, gently, touch the wing tip of one as it passed. Spooked
briefly, the majestic ray gave a couple of extra strong beats
to its enormous wings before curving effortlessly away to
resume feeding at a more leisurely pace with its companion
and accompanying remoras.
After
the delights of diving, the warm tropical evenings were frequently
filled with spontaneous entertainment. Although there was
a video player and monitor with a selection of tapes available,
this was rarely used. Instead we found ourselves either ashore
taking in the local culture, barbecuing on the beach or onboard
playing games - thanks Richard, Andy and Steve for the performing
horse and other amusements.
Apart
from some excellent diving, we watched some beautiful sunsets,
ate some marvellous meals, including Wahoo steaks cut from
a four footer Steve and I caught over the stern and were well
looked after by Sam, Rob and all of the crew of MV Keema.
Further
details of cruising and diving with MV Keema are available
from Maldives Scuba Tours Ltd, Barkers Farm, Rattlesden, Suffolk,
IP30 OST. Telep
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