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Basic maintenance
by
Brian Pitkin
Reproduced
from in focus 24 (Oct.
1987)
A
resumé of the BASIC COURSE talk for August 1987
The
problems
Amphibious
and housed cameras and flashguns can be used in fresh water
with little maintenance. It is only when we take our system
into salt water that the problem begin. Firstly. most cameras,
housings and flashguns designed for use underwater incorporate
a variety of different materials such as plastic, stainless
steel and aluminium alloy. Each of these materials on its
own can quite safely be taken into the sea without any detrimental
effects. However, most system combine all three materials.
Combine steel and aluminium alloy and salt water corrosion
Is a serious problem, causing flash connectors and the like
to sieze, making removal difficult or impossible. Secondly,
once out of the water, salt crystallises out as the equipment
dries. Unfortunately salt crystals form an abrasive, just
as severe as sand, and left an the '0' rings can facilitate
the access of water next time the equipment Is submerged.
The
solutions
WASHING
Fortunately
both of these problems can be quickly and easily overcome
by rinsing your equipment in freshwater. preferably tepid,
immediately after your dive. This will ensure that no salt
water Is left in contact with any steel /aluminium interface
or on the surfaces of the '0' rings exposed to salt water.
It Is essential that you leave any flashgun connected whilst
you rinse. if you have finished your film. set the shutter
speed control to 'R' and rewind the film carefully In freshwater,
If you are using a faucet or tap ensure that the pressure
Is not so great as to distort the '0' rings otherwisae a flood
my result. Still in freshwater, rotate the focus and aperture
controls. It the film has been rewound, reset the speed to
1/'60th and operate the shutter release.
DRYING.
CLEANING AND REGREASING
Once
thoroughly rinsed, your equipment should be equally thoroughly
dried, using low beat such as above a radiator. Once dried
carefully remove the flashgun plug (some photographers prefer
to leave flash plugs in situ until they fail, but they run
the risk of seizure). Clean the electrical contacts on the
plug and inside the camera. A toothbrush and typewriter eraser
may prove invaluable for this cleaning. Remove the flash plug
'0' ring, clean the groove and '0' ring and finally regrease
the '0' ring before replacing it, taking care not to overgrease.
Sufficient silicone grease to make the '0' ring shine and
no more is all that is needed.
NIKONOS
IVA and V
If
you are using a Nikonos IVA or V, assuming you have rewound
the film, you can open the camera back and remove the film.
Remove the '0' ring. being careful not to scratch or score
it as you do so. Clean the groove in which the '0' ring sits
and the face on which it seals using a cotton bud. Clean the
'0' ring and regrease it sparingly with silicone grease by
applying a single blob and spreading it over the entire surface
of the '0' ring by running it through your clean fingers.
Refit the '0' ring and, using silicon spray, grease the rewind
and wind-on shafts and the hinge and lock, being careful not
to spray silicone inside the camera.
Before
you load the next roll of film wipe any grease off your fingers
as silicone and processing chemicals do not readily mix. Load
the film, close the back and lock it. Reconnect the flashplug,
greasing the threads lightly with silicone grease. Check that
the flashgun fires when the shutter is released, thus exposing
the leader of the film - usually the first two or three frames
before the frame counter registers '1'. This is also an excellent
opportunity to observe the flash recycle time. If it exceeds
the manufacturers recommendation - usually anything from 2
to 15 seconds - or your own patience, change the batteries.
Clean the '0' rings, grooves and sealing surface and regrease
the '0' ring, as described for the camera. before closing
the flashgun battery compartment.
Finally,
having wound the film on to frame '1', check that the LED
display lights up indicating that the camera battery is still
in good condition. If the LED does not light up, try shooting
one more frame before assuming that the battery is dead. If
the LED still does not light up, change the battery. The battery
compartment can be opened with a coin. As with other '0' rings,
remove, clean and regrease but take care not to touch the
now battery with greasy fingers, as this may prevent electrical
contact. Insert the now battery and close up the battery compartment.
Unless you want to change lenses, you should now be ready
to expose your next roll of film.
Should
you wish to change lenses then carefully remove the existing
lens by pulling the lens slightly away from the camera body_and
rotating it through 90°. This is best done holding the
camera face down, as any small droplets of water still on
the lens '0' ring will fall away from the camera rather than
into the body_of the camera. Once removed. dry any small droplets
remaining in or on the camera and lens. Remove the '0' ring,
clean and regrease ready for re-use before fitting the dust
cap. Ensure the lens mount is clean before inserting the next
lens. If you fit the lens upside down this will enable you
to read aperture, focus and depth of field more readily by
tilting the camera backwards towards yourself (don't take
my word for it, try for yourself).
NIKONOS
II and III
If
you are using a likonos II or III. once the system has been
thoroughly rinsed in freshwater and dried, the procedure Is
such the same as for the Nikonos. IVA and V except. of course,
you must first remove the lens before you can remove the inner
body_to unload and reload film. Also, being entirely mechanical,
the Nikonos II and III do not have any integral batteries.
HOUSINGS
If
you are using a housed land camera, follow the washing and
drying procedure described above before removing the housing
back. Take care not to get grease or water inside the housing
whilst cleaning the main '0' ring, rewinding and changing
film. Grease the housing controls with silicon grease. If
your housing is polycarbonate do not use silicon spray as
the propellant used may react.
SEIZURE
Should
you be so unfortunate as to suffer a seized flash plug or
control, rinse the assembled equipment again before applying
gentle force. If this does not work, try soaking In a very
wild acid, such as weak vinegar. Try controlled force, never
brute force. If you are still unsuccessful return the equipment
to a qualified repairer.
FLOODING
If
you are unlucky and your camera or flashgun floods, do not
panic, it really is something every underwater photographer
can expect at one tim or another. As soon as you become aware
of the flood, switch off any electrical circuits. Once out
of the water, remove any batteries and then check the extent
of the flood. Often the lens of a slightly flooded camera
my be perfectly alright, do not wash It unnecessarily. If
both lens and camera are flooded rinse them in freshwater,
operating all controls. remove lens, open back (likonos IVA
and V) or remove inner body_(Bikonos II and Ill), remove film
and ditch it. Rinse all components thoroughly in freshwater,
again operating all controls to ensure as much of the saltwater
as possible is flushed out. Remove equipment from the freshwater
and gently shake off any excess. Dry the camera thoroughly
using low heat. When thoroughly dry it my be possible to re-use
the camera on manual without any apparent further problems.
Re-inserting batteries in an autonatic camera that is not
throughly dry my finish the electronics for good! Finally
get It checked by a qualified repairer as soon as possible
and check your insurance. |
