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The
news of Jaques Cousteau's death a couple of years ago reminded
me, amongst many others I'm sure, of the early developmental
years of diving in the Mediterranean. During the 1940's and
50's the Med' was positively teeming with life and for many
early divers was the only place to head for to experience
warm clear water and colourful marine life. The explosive
expansion of the tourist industry in the late 1960's and throughout
the 1970's put tremendous pressure on the marine environment
through pollution, over fishing and the popularity of spear
fishing which led to many coastal diving sites becoming known
more for their barren landscape rather than their once profuse
marine life Recent years have brought the realisation, some
inspired by Cousteou himself, that the preservation of the
Mediterranean con only be achieved through proactive measures
which have included the establishment of several successful
marine conservation reserves.
One
of the longest established reserves is that of the Levezzi
islands which lie to the south east of the island of Corsica
in the straits of Bonifacio, which divide Corsica from Sardinia.
The reserve, which includes a section of coastline on Capo
Pertusato, was first established thirteen years ago and has
been successfully policed by a small team of wardens. The
rules exclude commercial fishing, careless anchoring and provide
a code of conduct for divers to prevent damage to the marine
ecosystems. These restrictions have been remarkably successful
and have re-established an area of the Mediterranean to it's
former glory. In fact the strength of this success has been
recognised by the Italian authorities who have reached agreement
with the French government to extend the boundaries of the
reserve. This new International Marine Conservation Area (IMCA)
will include the Corsican coastline between Bonifacio and
Porto-Vechio and part of the northern coast of Sardinia. This
new extended reserve was established during 1998 and the number
of wardens and patrol craft will be increased in order to
police the area effectively.
So
what has the area got to offer to the visiting diver? The
Levezzi islands themselves are granitic and volcanic in origin
and very reminiscent of the Scilly Isles off our own south
western coast. The topography of tumbling granite boulders
continues offshore dropping off quickly often within a few
metres off shore. There are a multitude of small sheltered
coves, beaches and cliffs amongst the islands which will provide
a lee shore no matter what the weather. depths of 8-30m are
found close to the shore where the sea bed boosts huge gullies,
tunnels and swim throughs, carpeted in brilliant orange cup
corals, anemones, encrusting sponges, sea fans and populated
with a wide variety of fish life and invertebrates. Visibility
is normally excellent in the shallows and the waters are worm
permitting extended dives whilst you search for moray eels,
often with their attendant cleaner shrimps, and shy groupers
under the overhangs.
The
depth increases not far from shore to 20-45m and the topography
becomes more massive and spectacular. This is one of the few
areas in the Mediterranean that you con be sure of seeing
the spectacular red gorgonion (sea fan) corals in depths of
only 20-30m which have been commercially harvested so heavily
(it other locations. The offshore fish life around the reefs
becomes more pelogic with the chance of encountering shoals
of barracuda, tuna and the occasional shark.
One
particularly memorable dive was at a site named 'Werou Ville"
(Grouper Village) where the Mediterranean grouper is decidedly
alive and well. We were surrounded by very large and inquisitive
fish, who had obviously not experienced spear fishing, which
produced some excellent photo' opportunities. Some of this
interest in the divers has been propagated by hand feeding,
which is actively discouraged, but it is no less flattering
and thrilling to experience the attentions of these huge fish
despite this. Currents on these offshore sites ore normally
gentle, although you will often experience the classic chilly
Mediterranean thermocline once you get below 25m or so.
Back on dry land there is plenty to keep you amused if your
interests extend beyond the diving offered. Corsica is one
of the least-developed Mediterranean islands and has strong
French and Italian influences. Most of us may only remember
that this island was the birthplace of Napolean Bonaparte,
but a little exploration by car reveals a spectacular landscape
ranging from Alpine vistas to cliff top fortress towns and
classic golden sandy beaches lapped by clear blue water. You
are soon immersed in the gentle pace of life within a culture
and history that has been influenced and enriched by repeated
invasion from almost every great trading nation in the Mediterranean
basin. Many of the towns are medieval in origin and offer
fascinating exploration of their narrow, winding cobbled streets
most of which boast charming cafe's and bistro's offering
delicious French cuisine.
So
a visit to this alluring island could provide a mixture of
alternative activities after a few days diving. Trekking in
the mountains, skiing in the spring months, some historical
sightseeing or simply soaking up the sun and enjoying the
gastronomic fruits of both land and sea.
Reproduced
from in focus 66 (October
1999)
with kind permission of Mark Webster (http://www.photec.co.uk/)
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