A trip on Four Friends to the South China Sea

by Mike Ballentyne

Reproduced from in focus 36 (March 1990)

"Did you swim with Hammerhead Sharks?" I asked Margaret Colley as she boarded 'Four Friends'. "Well, yes", she replied, "but they didn't come as close as before!" Such reserve. A contrast to Mike Wong who needed no asking, surfacing with whoops of glee, to tell us about his latest encounter with hordes of sharks or Manta rays.

'Four friends' is a 66ft ketch rigged sailing yacht with an auxiliary engine. She was built for long distance diving trips and operates from Singapore, roaming around southeast Asia with occasional trips to the Indian Ocean and the Philippines, and similar places that appeal to the owner skipper, Warren Blake. From time to time he takes groups of marine biologists, archaeologists and photographers to some of his favourite diving sites.

We were diving on isolated reefs in the South China Sea, about 100 miles from the west coast of Borneo, mostly in Malaysian waters. These reefs are rarely visited by divers, or anyone else, and are generally unspoiled, with calm clear water. There are many vertical drop-offs, covered in lush corals with a good variety of fish, including shoals of sharks,jacks, barracudas and batfish.

At reefs with evocative names such as Royal Charlotte and Louisa, we often anchored just on the edge of the drop-off, with snorkelling depths to one side and inky blue depths to the other. Unlimited diving, either from the ketch or the two boats, was the antidote to the large quantities of food served by Vanessa, the cook. Particularly active, both in the eating and diving, was Mike Wong who managed to fit an impressive number of dives into each day and part of the night, with only brief intervals for catnaps. Often, Linda Pitkin seemed to spend more time underwater than on board, patiently working on her carefully composed shots. The identity of her male model in slinky skin tight Lycra is not generally known, though rumour suggests a close relation. Jaji, the crewman was kept busy filling tanks, but took time off to catch fish for supper.

One evening, Anthony Holley and a few others were sifting drink ing ice-cold beer on a park bench which they had man-handled from the ketch onto the exposed reef. They were watching the sun setting behind 'Four Friends' when some passing Malay fishermen stopped to ask the name of the reef. Courtesies were exchanged and the question answered. Comment on the eccentric behaviour of visitors was politely avoided.

Travel between reefs an 'Four Friends' is often at night to maximise diving time. This is usually limited only by the energy and enthusiasm of the divers and considerations of safety. Singapore has a first class recompression chamber, operated by an efficient and skilled team, but as this may be several days sailing away, the greatest care is needed when diving.

These trips are intended for those who are keen divers, with few alternative activities provided apart from eating, drinking, reading and sleeping. On some trips remote islands can be visited. If you are interested in such a trip, there are places available on trips from April 28th to May 20th and from September 8th - 29th, 1990. Contact: Mike Ballentyne 0453 885 220.